Thailand: The old and the new

Our return

Our first night back in Thailand was spent at the border town of Chiang Khong. There is nothing much to report from there: a basic hotel, plain food, and meeting a Belgian bar owner who was off his head and just wanted to play the (terrible) music from his band and drive his dog up and down the main street on the back of his motorbike. I am getting quite used to the surreal nowadays!

Chiang Rai

The following day we had a flying visit to Chiang Rai en route to Chiang Mai, to call in at the fascinating white temple. It is completely different to all the other Buddhist temples I have seen (and believe me, I have seen a lot on this tour!); from the mural on the wall with images of Spiderman and Kung-Fu panda, to the sculptured heads hanging from the trees and the hands reaching up from the floor representing souls lost in hell. It is an amazing place - and all paid for by one philanthropist artist who wanted to do something different. I can vouch for the fact that he has achieved his aim!

Chiang Mai

We did not have long in Chiang Mai (about six hours before we had to catch the overnight bus to Bangkok), but what I did see was wonderful. It's another city in which there seem to be temples everywhere, which is not surprising given it is one of the former capitals, including some of most ornate and some of the biggest I have seen. Unfortunately, because of the restricted time we had and rumours of a big traffic jam, we had to skip the most famous temple (Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep). Still, at least it gives me something to look forward to when I come back!

The city has a laid-back feel to it, much like Luang Prabang and Vientiane: it is big enough to keep you occupied, whether that be walking around the temples, visiting the elephant sanctuary, taking a cooking class or just wandering around the old streets, but not so big that it can't be explored for a first taste in a day. Despite the stories of heavy traffic near Doi Suthep, around the old quarter there was very little (perhaps because it was a Sunday) and ambling around the streets, through the weekend market that was springing up around us and one or two of the temples, was a relaxing way to spend the afternoon. In fact, the market was one of the best from the trip, with lots of local-made, good-quality and unusual items and not so much factory produced tat.

It has been quite a while since I went to the south of Thailand, but from what I remember and stories from others, the northern parts are like a different country.

I know you are all waiting for the next massage update and I can confirm that the Thais do know how to give a good one! We splashed out a bit as we were ending the tour and spent nearly a whole £10 at one of the more up-market spas, but it was worth it!

Bangkok

I don't know whether it is me or the city that has changed since my first visit ten years ago, probably both, but it has lost that exotic allure. The Golden Buddha, Great Palace and Wat Pho are still golden, great and, er, pho, but these and the other sights are spread out in the sprawling metropolis. The city looks and feels (and smells!) like a living city. It is probably a great place to live, getting to know the hidden gems of back street restaurants and deserted temples that provide an oasis of calm amongst the thronging city life, but for me it is just another big, modern city.

And then something happens which reminds you that beneath the modern, vibrant exterior, with the debauchery of Khoasan Road and dirty backstreets, beats a traditional heart with the pulse of an ancient culture. It was the king's birthday when we were there and, while political and military powers come and go out of favour, the Thai people are constant in their love of the king, so there was a great celebration. The wats around the city were all lit up and looked magical, especially with candle lanterns floating high above the Chao Phraya in the background. There were exhibition sites all over the centre with what looked like, bizarrely, the king's holiday snaps. About 80% of the people were wearing pink - the king's (current) lucky colour and, at 8.00, all across the country, including the restaurant we were having dinner, all the lights went off, everybody was provided with a candle and the whole restaurant started to sing the king's song. All five verses...

The final day of the trip was spent driving around in a tuk-tuk to see the sites. It was a busy day, calling in at Wat Pho, the White Buddha, the Laughing Buddha in the Marble Temple, the golden mount and Wat Arun.

Exhausted, there was just time for one last dinner with Abby and Jon (the only two that were left from the trip) before heading to the airport to continue the adventures elsewhere....